Spanjorer i Heby

Hungover like the pigs we were, we woke up, not 8 o´clock in time for the bus but...much later.
When we had assembled and tried to put together the pieces of our heads, we gave John and Ali acall and decieded tha Knutby would be too long to drive and opted for Heby instead.

After what still seemed to be forever we arrived in Heby and stopped to warm-up at the first boulder:Rampo. Unfortunately we had forgotten that the easiest problem on this particular boulder is 7a so it might not have been the best choice.

Ignacio doin "johns 7a"

Pavi "warming up"

We soon changed boulder and went to Hertz-blocket where Ignacio put up a new problem "Sin nombre" 7a while Ali was cleaning the main project: a megafat arete that noone knew if it was doable.

Ignacio  FA "Sin Nombre" 7a

Brushing

Inspecting the project

Daoable it was, Ali kind of flashed the FA of the high sanding start for a great 7a+ problem that he didnt even have time to name before Ignacio did the lowstand thus creating "Belmez-arete" 7c

Stockholmsareten was the next destination and Coriolis-effect sistart the goal.
Everybody tried but it was Ignacio who finally did it: Coriolis effect sitstart 7c+ was born.
I tried to film but Ignacio was so fast i missed it. here is the try before the success.


Corioliseffect from Christer Holmlund on Vimeo.

We tried the boulder next to it with the stange fingerholes as well but to no awail.
Everyone was totally beat and as we passed "Latinoblocket" on the way home the answer to johns qustion if anyone wanted to climb was a resounding -"NOOO!!!"

That could have been it since everyone wanted to go home but anyone who knows John know that was not to be.
John nagged and pestered us until Pavi let out a barely concealed "moutherfucker" and grabbed his pad.
It turned out that everyone was a little too tired to perform. Even Ignacio seemed to be too beat up but on what he promised to be his last try and in the dying light of the flashlight he sent the sitdown to "Vatos locos" at 7b+. Impressive indeed.

John trying "Vatos locos"

It was decieded that the guys would sleep in a tent in Orhem but when I told my wife, she threatened to kill me and said that they could stay in our livingroom until they went to Västevik.
Ok sorry!

Good luck in Västervik guys. I hope i will be able to come there as well.
Hasta la vista.

More pics to follow

//Chrille